Lake Toba – beyond Tuk Tuk

As mentioned in the previous entry, we find it hard to move beyond Tuk Tuk.

At last, we rent a scooter from our guesthouse. (One of our guesthouses – we move between two, to spread our business. The other one is the Sibigo.)

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Two wheels good

This street sign in Batak script piques our linguistic interest. This script pre-dates the arrival of Europeans.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Looks like Klingon

We can’t get enough of these traditional Batak houses.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
One little…
Beyond Tuk Tuk
Two little…
Beyond Tuk Tuk
Three little Batak houses

After a few more days of idleness, we travel around the island clockwise.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Onwards and upwards

Lake Toba from the heights of Samosir Island looks almost Scandinavian.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Beyond Tuk Tuk
Beyond Tuk Tuk
Lake Toba from the heights of Samosir
Beyond Tuk Tuk
Waterfall

We’ll miss this place when we leave. The people are very musical. Lots of singing going on.

In one of our guesthouses, everyone in the family is musically talented. It’s like staying with the Partridge Family.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Sumatra? Or Norway?
Beyond Tuk Tuk
Sumatra? Or Norway?
Beyond Tuk Tuk
Sumatra? Or Norway?

We stop for a lunch of instant noodles at a roadside stand.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Al fresco, con vista

Another similarity with Madagascar – terraced rice cultivation.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Rice terraces

Sight or Insight of the Day – beyond Tuk Tuk

When in Madagascar a few years ago, we learn that that island was populated -fairly recently – by people from this part of the world (that is, the Malay Archipelago). Among other things that may have an origin here are unusual funeral customs.

In Madagascar, they have parties for the deceased after a few years, give them gifts like new clothes, then rebury them.

In the Lake Toba area, people dig up the deceased, throw them a bash, wash their bones, then place the bones in little buildings called ‘tugus’.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Tugu, or bone house

We come across this unique structure below. The sign says:

‘The monument and the grave of Ompu Landit Simanihuruk and all of his offspring.’

A Google search turns up nothing.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
The House of Simanihuruk

The interior contains hundreds of niches, presumably for the bones of generations yet to come.

Beyond Tuk Tuk
Beehive-like interior

Mr. Ompu must be optimistic about the continuation of his line; only a dozen or so niches at the top are filled, leaving over 700 for the future.

Tomb Raider

Note the crosses. People here are nominally Christian, but we suspect it’s a case of Christianity grafted onto traditional beliefs. Like many places subjected to foreign missionaries.