Sometimes it seems as if this trip is turning into a checking-off of bucket list destinations. We have wanted to visit Fernando de Noronha for a long time. (For one thing, we like islands.)
It’s about 360 km off the northeastern coast of Brazil. Noronha is an aspirational destination, kind of like a Hawaii for Brazilians. Not everyone can afford it, and it’s more expensive than the mainland. But almost everyone would like to go.
(We can imagine in five years or so, Noronha being featured in the weekend edition of the Globe and Mail as an ‘undiscovered gem’.)
We spend nine days here. Our accommodation is modest but comfy and conveniently close to ‘town’.
The ‘town’ is Vila dos Remédios, more of a village. The full-time population of the island is a little over 3,000.
A big deal is made about Noronha being closer to Africa than it is to São Paulo, Brazil’s largest city. True or false? <Checks Google> Distance from Fernando de Noronha to São Paulo: 2,670 km. Distance from Fernando de Noronha to Cabo Verde (another former Portuguese possession): 2,489 km.
Really, the main attraction of Noronha is its beaches.
After a few excursions, we’re happy to go to a different beach each day and do nothing but relax and sip caipirinhas.
I remember years ago, Morrissey recorded a song in his signature angst-ridden style called The Lazy Sunbathers. In it, he berates vapid, selfish people pursuing a useless activity (non-activity?) while the world faces serious problems.
While walking, we meet one of Maria’s yoga buddies (see below). We are swarmed by her trio of mutts.
Our island tour takes us to Praia do Sancho.
To descend to beach level, you have to clamber down a couple claustrophobia-inducing ladders.
This is one of several Noronha beaches voted by Trip Advisor as the ‘Best In The World’. We are immediately wary of ‘Best In The World’ claims.
Still. they are very nice.
We stop for lunch at a ‘shark museum’. We can’t resist this mermaid-tail photo – it’s so appropriate for Maria.
Many places on the island are closed to people because they are being rehabilitated for wildlife. After all, most of the island is a national marine reserve.
We see the fuzzy young of some kind of seabird, very low on the branches of trees and ignoring the attention of people.
One day, we take a boat excursion to Sancho Beach.
On the way, we’re accompanied by troops of show-off spinner dolphins.
Another view of the ‘two brothers’, the island’s iconic rock formation.
On our last full day here, I set up shop on Praia da Cacimba do Padre. I close my eyes for a minute or so, and when I open them, there’s a black dog lying quietly at my feet. He stays with us for four hours.
We may have to change the name of our site to ‘The Global Dog Blog’.
Sight or Insight of the Day
Maria likes to participate in yoga sessions whenever she gets the chance. While here, she gets to attend sessions in three special places.
- On the beach overlooking the Baía dos Porcos.
2. Another at a nearby pousada under the full moon.
3. Inside the 18th-century fortress that overlooks the ocean
