Random Rambles

One morning, we set out on foot for a Nile-side stroll. Like Alexandria, central Cairo has lots of Italian/French-style apartment buildings in various states of dilapidation.

Along the way, we stop for an excellent coffee in this place. The staff are very friendly and the coffee is superb, with some added exotic spices.

We pass this office, wondering if it’s a serious government department. Elections here exist only to confirm that whoever happens to be president stays in office until Hell freezes over.

We walk to the southern tip of Rhoda Island.

We’ve come to see the Nilometer on the southern tip of the island..

The pillar dates from the ninth century, I think . The decoration up top is nice, too.

Next door is an exhibit on the life of Umm Kulthum, an Egyptian singer of mythic fame in the Arab world. Even young Egyptians hold her in high regard. Personally, I think her habit of hobnobbing with Egypt’s dictators detracts from the ‘woman of the people’ schtick.

Zamalek is a ritzy neighbourhood on Gezira Island where we go in search of a Fair Trade gift shop.

On the long walk home, the riverside promenade is full of rollerbladers.

Next day, we visit the Mosque of Ibn Tulun. According to wikipedia:

‘It was designed by the prominent Egyptian architect, Saiid Ibn Kateb Al-Farghany, who was an Orthodox Christian, the same engineer who designed the Nilometer. The mosque’s original inscription slab identifies the date of completion as AH 265 (878/879 AD).’

This dove finds a perfect place for a nest in a mosque lamp.

The mosque has an unusual spiral minaret. For a nominal fee, an attendant lets us climb to the top.

Our next stop is the Museum of Islamic Art. Our route takes us through some picturesque neighbourhoods.

The imposing Cairo Citadel. We give it a wide berth because the army still uses it, so we’re told.

Around the corner from the museum, we admire this street dog that has found a good place for a snooze.

The Museum of Islamic Art has a well-curated and well-displayed collection of Islamic goodies.

Our last full day in Cairo. We start with the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, which opened in 2021.

An apropos temporary exhibit features Tintin and Snowy in an entertaining Orientalist fantasy.

The most impressive exhibit (for me) were the tastefully arrayed 22 royal mummies, including such powerhouses as Ramses II and Hatshepsut (no photos allowed.) It’s fascinating to see the actual frail, shrunken remains of these rulers that constructed colossal edifices – some of which we’ve seen – and loom so large in Egyptian history.

The rest of the museum is thankfully sparse in quantity but very good in quality.

Besides having a pleasant restaurant, the museum also has nice grounds to enjoy.

From the New to the Old. Our last visit of the day is back to the Medieval part of town. We take an Uber to the Bab al-Nasr for a last wander around the Khan el-Khalili market.

Sight or Insight of the Day

While having lunch in the chic restaurant of the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, the party at the next table catch my attention. There is a very debonair-looking Australasian gentleman who looks familiar. He’s well-dressed, clear-spoken, and confident. He wears an Akubra hat at a jaunty angle. His entourage is well-behaved. They get up to leave.

It’s uncharacteristic of me, but I just have to ask, otherwise I’ll never know. ‘Excuse me. Are you Sam Neill?’

‘No, I’m afraid not‘, he replies.

‘I’ll bet you get asked that a lot‘ I say.

‘Actually, no‘ he deadpans ‘I’m usually mistaken for George Clooney or Brad Pitt.‘

After our nine-day group tour, we have five days to spend in Cairo before flying to Dahab in the Sinai Peninsula.

As mentioned, Cairo is a city of ten million closely-packed residents. It’s pretty chaotic.

Our hotel is on Talaat Harb street, just a few minutes walk from a Metro station and the Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square.

This is the venerable old Egyptian Museum, a Cairo landmark for over a century.

We spend a few hours at the Egyptian Museum with our tour group. Now, we dedicate an entire day exploring it.

Egypt is building another mega-museum, the Grand Egyptian Museum. When it will actually open its doors is anybody’s guess.

Finds from the tomb of Tutankhamen are a big draw. There were over 5,000 objects placed there. We’ll limit ourselves to a single item.

The detail and workmanship is amazing. The footstool is covered with conquered enemies. (Considering he died at the age of 19, I don’t think Tutankhamen led any great hosts in pitched battles.)

The support struts are ducks (or geese) holding the bottom rollers in their beaks.

OK, we said we’d limit ourselves to one Tutankhamen item. Just one more – another richly-decorated chair.

The museum is full of praiseworthy stuff. This is a statue of Djoser, the pharaoh responsible for that step pyramid we visited a few entries ago, in front of some beautiful sea-green tiles from the same pyramid.

Here’s the Palette of Narmer. It’s world-famous – at least among history fans.

We see this depicted a lot in Egyptian art – a leader dominating a defeated rival while firmly grasping his man-bun.

Both of us really liked the possessions from a tomb of the royal couple, Yuya and Thuya. We’ve never heard of them before. After examining their belongings, it felt like they were old friends.

And just at random, an exquisite mummy mask.

Of course, all of these priceless treasures of world heritage are just a single Islamic revolution away from total destruction. It’s a good thing there’s still a lot of the original discoveries safe in Western museums.

Another place we revisit is the Khan el-Khalili bazaar in the historic centre of Cairo.

Maria and I succumb to the lure of all this unbridled capitalism: she buys a pair of scarlet camel-hide slippers and I purchase a lapis-lazuli ring.

Some of the architecture dates back centuries.

Sight or Insight of the Day

Getting around in Cairo is not for the faint-hearted. There is a Metro, which is a good way to get around. We take it one day to visit the Coptic Museum.

But the areas of interest you can get to by Metro are limited. They have Uber here, but often the places we visit are so jam-packed with pullulating humanity, there is no easy pickup-point.

And taking a taxi here always involves the unpleasant feeling of being skinned alive (financially) by the taxi drivers.

So we often walk to places. Where sidewalks exist, they are usually overrun with impromptu markets.

Or, in areas where there are government buildings, ‘for security reasons’ ordinary people are diverted off of the sidewalk and onto the death-defying streets packed with crazed Cairo motorists.

Oh dear, we’re falling woefully behind on our blog entries. Once again, I blame the suboptimal internet service in Egypt.

Our cruise down the Nile goes on at a leisurely pace. We stop in Luxor for the night.

As the sun goes down, we go to the mighty Karnak Temple.

This is a scarab statue near Karnak’s Sacred Lake. Tourist lore says that if you circle it x-amount of times, you will be granted a wish.

Back in town, we stop at the centrally-located Temple of Luxor.

The early sunset makes for dramatic night-time visits to these places.

First thing next morning, we visit the temple of Queen Hatshepsut.

(We see the mummy of the woman herself in Cairo.)

There was a serious terrorist attack here in 1997. Of course, there is no mention of it during our visit.

Nearby is the Valley of the Kings.

Considering the great number of tourists that visit here year-round, it’s still an amazing experience to visit these tombs. Collectively, they are man-made creations of near-perfect artistry at a time when most people on the planet were still primitive hunter-gatherers.

Needless to say, modern Egypt is slightly less rich in ‘creations of near-perfect artistry’.

We pay extra to visit the tomb of Tutankhamen. This happens to be the centenary year of its discovery.

This really created a splash at the time, as Tutmania swept the globe..

The tomb’s trove of stupendous artifacts now reside in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.

In fact, the only object remaing in the tomb is the modestly-draped mummy of the Pharaoh himself.

We visit four tombs. I’d love to come back at a future date and explore more of them. I believe this is the tomb of Merneptah. It’s over 3,000 years old.

Several tombs have ceilings that represent the stars of the night sky. We’ve noticed this in other sites in Egypt.

Here’s the tomb of…dang, I forget. They’re all pretty cool.

On the ceiling, looks like some god holding up the sky.

The search goes on for new finds, even after centuries of unearthed tombs. Local workers still dig in the old-fashioned ways.

Back on the tour. We stop for lunch at a restaurant on the other side of the Nile.

We hear about the winter conditions back home. Difficult to imagine from our current surroundings.

The next stage is a five-hour bus ride to the coastal town of Hurghada.

We spend two nights at this all-inclusive resort. My plan is to lounge by the pool sipping mojitos. Maria is more ambitious and goes off on a snorkeling expedition with some others.

We plan to do more snorkeling in Dahab – that’s my excuse for staying behind.

Sight or Insight of the Day

We leave early the next morning for the long drive back to Cairo.

Eventually, the empty desert becomes more populated. Many buildings in Egypt seem to be the same tawny colour as the sandy surroundings.

Cairo is a city of ten million people. It’s, um, interesting to spend time there. More in our next entry.

Something unprecedented for us: we go on a package tour. Having decided that getting from site to site would be more hassle than it’s worth, we sign up for a nine-day Egyptian tour that begins in Cairo. It’s much more fun than we would have imagined.

(In case you’re wondering, the title of this entry paraphrases the title of a schlocky movie I saw as a kid.)

Luck has a lot to do with it. Our group is made up of interesting and diverse people, most with a good sense of humour.

Let’s see, we have Annie from Australia, Manav and Upma from the US, Angel and Triscia from South Africa, Graham and John from Canada, Elvira and Denise from the Netherlands, the Sungai family from Zimbabwe, Kamal and Dreety from Mauritius, and many more.

First stop are the pyramids. Even after a lifetime of seeing these in films and photos, to see them in real life is overwhelming.

It’s kind of hard to give an idea how enormous they are. As we discover, for the ancient Egyptians, bigger is always better. But even with these mountains of house-sized stone blocks to protect them, grave robbers managed to plunder the mummies out of them.

“What are the hopes of man? Old Egypt’s King
Cheops erected the first pyramid
And largest, thinking it was just the thing
To keep his memory whole, and mummy hid;
But somebody or other rummaging,
Burglariously broke his coffin’s lid:
Let not a monument give you or me hopes,
Since not a pinch of dust remains of Cheops.” – Lord Byron, from Don Juan: Canto 1, stanza 219

They certainly make a great background for photos, though.

The same day, we visit the step pyramid of Djoser in nearby Saqqara.

This one pre-dates the Giza pyramids.

Some other senior civil servants are entombed nearby. Besides the great step pyramid, we explore a couple of these.

We fly from Cairo to Aswan. The next day, we embark for a short boat ride to the Temple of Philae.

Our guide, Ash, fills us in on the historic details.

One feature of every country we’ve been to so so far on this trip: there’s always someone around making bread.

At the Nubian Museum in Aswan, this woman and her family were very insistent that I take a selfie with them.

From Aswan, we awake for a long bus journey to Abu Simbel.

In case you don’t know, these were cut out from their original location in the 60s and relocated to avoid being submerged under the rising waters of the Lake Nasser reservoir.

I remember learning about this in elementary school and being fascinated at the time.

I can scratch one item off my childhood bucket list.

We also visit Kom Ombo temple. Half of this temple was dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek.

Because of this, an on-site museum features lots of mummified crocs. Some are wrapped like submarine sandwiches.

And some are not. They get the same treatment as human mummies, that is, their interior organs are removed and the cavity filled with preservative substances.

For three nights, we cruise down the Nile on the MS Nile Jewel.

We see a woman on a deck chair is reading Death on the Nile. (As it turns out, we spend Christmas Eve watching the 2022 film version.)

Sight or Insight of the Day

Because of the crappy internet in Egypt, we are a bit behind in these entries. We are, in fact, in the Sinai beach resort of Dahab celebrating the holidays, after spending five days in Cairo.

Merry Christmas, everyone! Looking forward to new adventures in 2023.

That is, the two of us. We arrive in Alexandria from Dubai with a plan to spend a month in Egypt.

The first thing that happens: our binoculars are confiscated! Apparently, they have ‘military applications’. I pity any birdwatching groups entering the country with their expensive binos.

We decide to treat ourselves to a stay at the historic Cecil Hotel. The location is great.

Our hotel is right on the corniche. Modern Alexandria is all about this sea-facing promenade.

It’s lined with bustling cafés and crowds of people day and night.

A pair of Alexandrians find a spot to enjoy the evening.

So does this cat.

Our hotel is ideally situated for exploring the city.

Alexandria, of course, is famous for its great library of antiquity. It has an aspirational modern counterpart in the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.

It’s a magnet for bibliophiles.

Not surprising to see that most of the users are female. Intelligence will be how women advance in these countries.

We visit the catacombs. (Even though they are one of the premier tourist attractions here, our Uber driver spends half an hour circling aimlessly. We get to see some interesting parts of Alexandria, so that’s OK.)

Built in the Greco-Roman era, they’re deep. And Labyrinthine.

There are fancier tombs for the well-off.

And for the humble people, a simple niche.

Like many artifacts of the time, there is an interesting blend of ancient Egyptian and contemporary Hellenistic styles in everything.

We visit the Alexandria National Museum. It’s in the former US consulate.

Alexandria was once full of these elegant Italianate buildings. After Nasser kicked out the numerous cosmopolitan residents – Italians, Greeks, Armenians, French, Jews, etc. – in a fit of strident Arab nationalism, large parts of Alex fell into decay.

Now the streets are crowded with people trying to make a living. The economy of Egypt doesn’t exactly run at peak efficiency.

So far, people have been friendly here, as long as you are not being specifically targeted for some scam or other.

There is a lively market going on in the narrow alleys surrounding Pompey’s Pillar.

Many Egyptians, like most non-Western people, are cruel to dogs. But Egyptians are kind to cats. We wonder if this is a holdover from the cat worship of the their ancestors.

Under what was formerly known as Kom el-Dikka (that is, ‘hill of rubble’), archeologists have excavated a prosperous Roman neighborhood.

This is some ancient graffiti done by the supporter of a chariot-race champion, according to the explanatory plaque.

In the ruins of a nearby villa are some impressive mosaics, including this one of a parrot.

We visit Pompey’s Pillar, in what was the Serapeum of Alexandria in ancient times.

The pillar is all that’s left of a complex that used to look like this:

The Serapeum was also a branch of the famous Library, where anyone could borrow a scroll or two.

One day, we hire a car and driver to visit the area of the Battle of El Alamein. The military museum has some fairly interesting exhibits inside and lots of military equipment salvaged from the desert outside.

Winston Churchill had this to say:

“Before Alamein we never had a victory. After Alamein, we never had a defeat.”

We like to pay our respects at Commonwealth War Graves whenever we come across one. No matter how squalid the country they’re in, they are always impeccably clean.

We find at least one Canadian among the numerous British, Australians, New Zealanders, and South Africans.

It’s a shame that so many young men from around the world came to this distant wilderness to die defending Egypt from a dictatorial torturing warmonger like Hitler, only to have a like-minded dictatorial torturing warmonger like Nasser take over the country less than a decade later.

Because they’re in the same vicinity, we also visit the memorials of the Italians and the Germans. The Italian one is stylish.

The German one is austere.

The time comes to take the train to Cairo. The train station is just a few blocks from our hotel.

The journey takes about two and a half hours. Our car is air conditioned, but kind of grotty.

Sight or Insight of the Day

In the Italian war memorial, we come across the remains of a soldier with the same surname as Maria.

We fly from Muscat to Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates. It takes less than an hour.

See the three tall buildings behind the pinkish tower? Those are the Etihad Towers. Vin Diesel flew a car through all three. Don’t believe me? See for yourself.

My iPhone needs a new battery. As usual, the Apple Store is a marvel of design.

Our first stop is the Louvre Abu Dhabi.

Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, it features bunker-like temperature controlled exhibition spaces under a lacework dome with lots of places for people to hang out in a relaxed setting.

Nearby, another interesting building is going up. It might be the future Sheik Zayed National Museum.

Hey, they have Tim Hortons in the UAE. Who knew?

This is the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Grand might be an understatement.

It’s a gargantuan edifice. (A big building, in plain English.) It’s connected to a giant underground shopping mall. This is actually a natural fit; two things that are plentiful here are mosques and shopping malls.

The columns are inlaid with semi-precious stones.

A woman takes a photo of her daughter, coaching her into this demure pose.

We take a bus from Abu Dhabi to Dubai.

On arrival, Maria has to test a fresh-squeezed orange juice machine. It’s cold and delicious.

The one thing we consider must-see here is the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building. (For now.)

From the top, you get a great view of the city-sized Dubai Mall below.

As well as the rest of the Dubai skyline.

Also in the Dubai Mall is an enormous fish tank, complete with sharks, manta rays, and sawfish.

Another Dubai icon is the Palm Jumeirah, a palm-tree shaped artificial island.

From here you can see another Dubai landmark, the sailboat-inspired Burj Al Arab.

We visit the Gold Suq. Plenty of jewelry on display, but it’s more about the weight than the esthetic quality.

A new attraction in Dubai is the torus-shaped Museum of the Future.

It’s covered in Arabic script. (Quotes from the current Sheik that rules Dubai.) To be honest, the architecture is the best thing about it, despite the steep entrance fee..

The exhibitions about the future are not very convincing. (Personally, I can’t imagine women wearing hijabs a century from now any more than I can imagine women today wanting to wear corsets and bustles.)

On our last day in the UAE, we go to Sharjah, our third emirate. (There are seven.)

Sharjah is much less glitzy than Abu Dhabi and Dubai. More working-class, you could say. Its harbour is full of fishing boats and small freighters.

It resembles the midsized cities of Oman. Not much globally-recognized architecture here.

We’ve come specifically to visit the Museum of Islamic Civilization.

Its numerous artifacts are well-curated. We liked the special exhibition on Arabic calligraphy.

That evening, we board our flight for Alexandria, Egypt.

Sight or Insight of the Day

There is obviously a lot of money sloshing around in these Gulf states. It just seems to me that most of it is frittered away in frivolous vanity projects. Nobody here is committing billions of dollars to cure cancer, or end world hunger, or ensure universal childhood education.

I’ve always thought it a bit strange that during the migration crisis of 2015, the number of refugees taken in around here was, um, zero.

Here are people who share the same language. The same culture. The same religion. Yet notwithstanding a generous amount of financial aid, the number of their Arab brethren they were willing to physically take in was none. Nada. Zilch. Not one.

Considering that all of these countries depend on foreign workers – in the UAE, over 80% of residents are non-Emiratis, mostly South Asians – you’d think they would have been glad to import a few million immediately-assimilable souls.

Our last entry for Oman. From Al Hamra, we head to Jebel Shams, the highest mountain in Oman. On the way, we come across a local specialty: goat-hair carpets woven by local men.

We want to do the Balcony Walk – a hike along the ‘Grand Canyon of Oman’.

Jebel Shams means ‘sun mountain’.

On the road, we spot one of the ubiquitous blue trucks that deliver water to Omani households.

For most of the trek, you are only steps away from a long plunge to the bottom of the canyon.

At the end of the trail is an abandoned village.

The place is the haunt of wild goats. They are obviously used to hikers sharing their provisions.

When we descend the mountain, we explore yet another abandoned village: Wadi Ghul.

We think the simple explanation for the high number of abandoned villages in Oman is that people just found better places to live after the modernizations of the last half-century or so.

Our next stop is the ancient tombs of Al Ayn.

They’re supposed to be 5,000 years old. Even though they are a major historical artifact in Oman, they are extremely hard to track down.

The Rustaq Loop is our next destination. This is a trio of forts that people usually take in together. In our case, we find that two of them are closed for renovations. Only the Al-Hazm fort is open for visitors. It’s pretty impressive.

The fort was the home of the local powerful imam. This is the imam’s leisure room.

While walking around, we are followed by the imam’s cat. (So we call him.) He’s very friendly.

A mystery – in several regions of Oman, we pass walled areas named in English ‘old cemetery’. But inside, we see nothing but rocks. In Islam, most graves are very simple, even for eminent persons. Ostentatious grave markers are rare.

But I read somewhere – and for the life of me, I can’t find this source again – that many Omanis are followers of the Ibadi form of Islam. Some take this simplicity to a somewhat extreme degree. They inter the body and just place a rock in memory. And that’s it.

We can see that this makes sense, in a way. Almost all customs involving passed-on people are designed for the survivors, since the no-longer-living are beyond all that.

Our original plan was to visit the Omani exclave of Musendam. Because it’s detached from the main body of Oman, we have to take a ferry. The ferry itself is very modern and comfortable, but the booking arrangements are a challenge. Can’t book a ticket online. Can’t see the schedule online. Can’t pay online.

We wanted to take Lawrence with us, but by the time we acquire tickets, there is no space for a vehicle. We leave him behind for couple of days in the port of Shinas, where the ferry departs from.

Once the ferry is at sea, they open the observation decks. There are two areas: one for ‘women and families’, and one for men only (like the rest of the boat). This is the normal gender apartheid that prevails in this part of the world.

The main town in Musendam is Khasab. The next day, we take an all-day dhow cruise that includes fjord-viewing and snorkeling.

The dhow is relaxing. It’s a pleasant change to be transported around by someone else.

In some places, we’re accompanied by dolphins.

…and more dolphins.

One of our snorkeling spots is Telegraph Island.

The water is emerald green and abounds in fish.

Maria, as usual, is in her element.

A noteworthy cultural trait in Khasab: every night, scores of smugglers stream across the Strait of Hormuz from Iran in small, speedy boats loaded to the gunwales with sheep and goats. They return with contraband like refrigerators and microwaves.

We return to the mainland on the ferry to Shinas and drive back to Muscat.

Sight or Insight of the Day

After nearly a month in Oman, it’s time to depart. We spend the last few days in Muscat again, where we visit the extravagant Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.

On our last day, we take a day trip to the nearby Dimaniyat Islands.

These islands have some of the best snorkeling we have seen since the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia. The absolute best part is the sea turtles! We see at least half a dozen, gracefully floating around and wafting to the surface just past our noses.

We’ve really enjoyed our time here. From a brief stopover a few years ago on our way to Iran, we thought Oman looked like an attractive place to visit. And so it proved.

With a heavy heart, we return Lawrence to the car rental office. We’ve travelled almost 5,000 kilometres together. He joins Uncle Joe, Shorty, and Cardashian on our list of faithful automotive companions for this trip.

From Nizwa, we drive to a place where we spend the night in the desert at the edge of the Sharqiya Sands. (We leave Lawrence behind in a village 12 KMs away and are driven to the camp in a 4WD vehicle.)

Many of these desert-camping places are expensive, and feature luxuries like swimming pools (!) and air conditioning. This one does not. Just a non-air-conditioned tent.

Meals are included, and are served in a covered, rug-strewn dining area.

We go for a sundown drive.

Here are a few desert photos.

We ask our driver, Mohammed, to take our picture. Our tent camp is in the background

Of course, after dark the sky is full of stars. Lots of meteors, too. (And aircraft flying into United Arab Emirates airports at all hours.)

Our next stop is Al Hamra. It turns out that the only reasonably-price accommodation we can find is an entire Omani house. We stay there for three days.

We have the place to ourselves, except for a young Italian woman that stays for a couple of nights.

It’s a good place to get caught up on business.

There’s a lush palm oasis across the street.

Amid the oasis are the ruins of Old Al Hamra.

These abandoned villages are a reminder of what life must have been like here before the oil money started flowing in the 1960’s.

The main attraction is the mountain village of Misfat Al Abriyeen.

Many of the buildings here are built on top of boulders and cliffs.

There are abandoned houses here, too.

Running through the village are water channels that are part of the aflaj system. We see these elsewhere in the country.

It’s the middle of the day by the time we arrive. The temperature is in the mid-thirties Celsius.

The narrow streets are fun to explore.

Sight or Insight of the Day

Nothing very exciting. Just a simple observation.

For some reason, I can’t pass an animal without wanting to give it a pat.

One of our last visits in Salalah is to the Land of Frankincense Museum.

Oman has been a source of the world’s best frankincense for millennia. Most famously in the New Testament.

We would buy some to take home, but we don’t have a cathedral that needs regular censing. Nor does anyone we know.

We head north again. Instead of the coast road through the desert, we now take the central road through the desert. It’s desert all the way. Have we mentioned that we love deserts?

The coast road is quite mountainous and scenic. This route is mostly flat and featureless.

Signs warn of drifting dunes.

You may have heard of ‘forest bathing’. We stop now and then for some ‘desert bathing’: just let the heat, utter silence, and total isolation wash over you.

Mind you, having said that, the way to go is in a well-airconditioned reliable car!

A convoy of Omani military vehicles passes us on the other side. Probably heading for some upcoming National Day event in Salalah.

The stability of Oman stands in stark contrast to the hot mess that is next-door Yemen.

We stop for the night in the Arabian Sands Hotel.

It’s in the village of Haima.

The next morning, I get my haircut on a whim before fueling up Laurence and heading out again. Fuel here is .88 Canadian cents/litre.

One good thing about deserts – they provide material for dozens of cartoons in The New Yorker.

Nizwa is where we spend a few days when we are in the north once more. It’s one of about half-a-dozen towns in Oman that was at one time the capital.

The walls give a good view of the courtyard.

Maria poses with one of the guides.

Note the big-ass knife on the man’s belt. This is a khanjar, standard wear for the well-dressed Omani male.

Some more guides take a break. (The walking sticks are also an Omani thing.)

View over the town of Nizwa.

Maria shows off her new chapeau.

As usual, there is not a cloud in the sky.

A woman prepares a light, fluffy bread that is then drenched in honey.

We visit the Nizwa suq. The indoor food market is the cleanest market building we’ve ever seen. It’s full of men selling (and buying) sugary confections.

There are lots of ceramic pots for sale. They’re made in the nearby city of Bahla.

Sight or Insight of the Day

While we’re in the Nizwa suq, two women approach Maria and say they would like to photograph her for ‘a project’.

Maria complies. She spends the next twenty minutes being snapped by these ladies.

After our turtle-viewing, our goal is the city of Salalah, Oman’s third-biggest city. It’s two days drive through the desert to get there.

We pass through a few fishing villages. The harbour is busy with dhows and other fishing boats.

It’s good to get out of the car and stretch our legs every hour or so.

On the shore, some locals sit around and shoot the breeze. Maria asks if she can take their picture. They’re happy to oblige.

Some industrious types are at work mending their nets.

Like young people everywhere…

At some point, inhabited places are few and far between.

Bedouin encampments dot the land. Like elsewhere in the Middle East, they don’t seem to get much of the oil wealth that’s floating around.

At a gas station, we are greeted by the first friendly dog we’ve seen here. (The first dog, really.) We think he belongs to the owner.

We stop for the night in Duqm, a strange place in the middle of nowhere.

We pass through some stunning, Grand Canyon-esque scenery as we get to the coast again.

We listen to the radio from time to time. Sometimes we pick up what sounds like a non-stop prayer channel. (I’m sure they have those in the USA.) Other times, there’s Omani music with an interesting, drum-backed droning melody, sort of like the oriental-style chorus on Kate Bush’s The Sensual World.

We spend a couple of days in Mirbat in search of places to snorkel.

Salalah – and the south of Oman in general – enjoys monsoon rains in the summer that make it much greener than the rest of the country.

Salalah has no shortage of mosques. At prayer times, it gets pretty loud. It’s like a titanic Battle of the Muezzins five times a day.

In a local supermarket, the variety of dates and date products is mind-boggling.

At Al Haffa Beach, Maria models her do-it-yourself birkini.

Meanwhile, I hold down the fort with Lawrence.

Ad Dahariz is another beach we visit. Many families arrive around sundown.

One day, we drive further down the coast towards the Yemeni border. One beach, Al Mughsail, is nearly deserted.

The beach has several pergolas to keep out of the sun.

One has the following graffiti on it. This is pretty commonly how visitors perceive Omanis.

We carry on to the even-more-secluded Al Fazayah Beach. Maria gets her swimming fix.

I huddle into what little shade there is.

Sight or Insight of the Day

Hamlet: ‘Do you see yonder cloud that’s almost in shape of a camel?’
Polonius: ‘By th’mass, and ‘tis like a camel indeed.’

Let’s hear it for camels!

You really do have to watch out for them on the road. We’ve seen hundreds since we’ve been here.

Seeing some always makes us feel good. Their faces are so endearing.

Sometimes seen alone in an otherwise vast emptiness. Sometimes in large groups.

Camels make the world a better place.