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While in Hong Kong, we bought a 21-day Japan Railways railpass. (These must be purchased while outside Japan.)

Our first stop from Tokyo is Fukuoka.

We learn a harsh lesson: never travel during Golden Week in Japan!

The entire country seems to be on the move. Transportation is crowded. Hotel prices can quintuple, believe us. All attractions are swarming with visitors.

It’s easy to forget how close we are to continental Asia. There is a ferry that runs from here to Pusan, Korea.

Today is a rainy day in Fukuoka.

Zen temples mean zen gardens.

At least the rain keeps the crowds away from this temple complex.

Fukuoka is famous for its ramen. (Many cities in Japan make this claim.) We have lunch in a bustling noodle bar.

A self-confessed non-foody, this is what I think of when I think of ramen.

This is the real deal.

Next we travel to Kagoshima. On the way, we pass Minimata Bay. This was the site of serious industrial mercury poisoning in the sixties, I remember.

Kogashima’s most outstanding feature is an in-your-face active volcano, Sakurajima, just across the bay.

We don’t get to see this, because it is rainy and misty our entire time in town.

We take a ferry over to Sakurajima and enjoy the free thermal footbath.

One result of living near a volcano that regularly spews clouds of ash over town – the city council organizes to pick up the ashes after they are swept up.

Kagoshima is also well-known in Japan for its outstanding local pork. The locals raise Berkshire pigs, producing what is essentially the ‘Kobe beef’ of pork.

We wait in line at the Aji No Tonkatsu Maruichi restaurant. We are rewarded with the best panko-encrusted pork ever.

Next stop is Hiroshima.

Besides the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, we visit a few museums in nearby Kure. One is the Japanese Imperial Navy
Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force Museum, with its decommissioned submarine out front.

This is the third submarine we’ve been in on this trip. (One in Sydney, one in Perth.)

Interesting that the museum concentrates on post-WWII activities: mine-sweeping and UN peacekeeping duties.

Less constrained is the nearby Yamato Museum.

The Yamato Museum has more exhibits about actual naval activities during the war. Sometimes exhibits have descriptions in Japanese only. My theory is that these are of the more militaristic and hectoring variety, better left untranslated for sensitive foreigners.

We notice that any mention of the domestic wartime experience in Japanese museums severely glosses over any context whatsoever. Blithely indifferent to numbers like these. Every place we’ve been to on this trip that suffered Japanese occupation – Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Honk Kong – tells an unvarying tale of brutal oppression, torture, starvation, and enslavement. Yet the (brief) portrayal in museums here speak of a nation mystified by the rain of Allied bombs and utter destruction of the country and subsequent occupation. ‘The people were saddened’. Strange.

Anyway, back to the present-day Japan of gentle ways. We visit the small-but-excellent Hiroshima Museum of Art. Some kind of geisha class is underway in the courtyard.

Among its collection is a Van Gogh we’ve never seen before.

Next stop is Himeji, with its castle. Our train is a special pink-themed Hello Kitty shinkansen.

Hello Kitty is, of course big in Japan, having been invented here. But she’s also popular elsewhere in Asia. We remember an entire ‘Hello Kitty’ lounge at the Taipei Airport, among other things.

Because it’s Golden Week, Himeji is heaving with visitors.

Most castles in Japan are restorations. Himeji is original.

You get a nice view from the top.

A lot of Japan looks like this – a heavily-urbanized area surrounded by mountains.

Sight or Insight of the Day – Railpass Rambles

As we leave Tokyo on a brilliant sunny day, we spy the iconic Mt. Fuji.

It’s a challenge to take photos from a shinkansen because of their high speed. Maria manages to get a more tranquil shot.

As mentioned, in Kyoto we pass this awesome temple several times a day.

One afternoon, we attend the Miyako Odori geisha performance.

Nearby is a statue of Izumo no Okuni, the woman who originated kabuki theatre.

I think it’s interesting that Okuni and William Shakespeare were alive and active at the same time. Just on opposite sides of the globe. Two people of humble origins that changed the world of theatre.

Crossing a bridge on the Kamo River, we see this bird on the rocks below. We research ‘water birds of Kyoto’, but can’t find a description that fits with his prominent crest.

We walk around the Gion district.

This is Shinbashi Street in Gion.

The Kennin-ji temple is nearby. It’s the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto.

On the ceiling of the main building is this marvelous painting of twin dragons.

Of course there are Zen gardens in the courtyards.

There are banks of chrysanthemums peonies at this time of the year.

As per the anagrammatic title of this entry, we take the shinkansen to Tokyo.

The first of many (we have a 21-day Japan Railways railpass.) These trains travel at over 300 KPH. They are spotless, frequent, comfortable, and go like a rocket.

Our neighbourhood in Tokyo, Ueno, is a good mix of ‘lively’ and ‘quiet’.

The owner of our hotel is a former sushi chef. One evening, the guests enjoy a free feed of fresh sushi.

We continue to stumble onto landmark art exhibitions. There is a special exhibit on Gustav Klimt at the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum in Ueno Park.

The museum, like many places here, has a free umbrella locker. The Japanese are admirably civic-minded.

This tendency keeps us on our best behaviour. We try not to act like barbarians.

In the same park is the Tokyo National Museum.

It’s a treasure house of Japanese and other Asian articles.

This is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. It has great views over city from its free observation decks.

On a clear day, you can see Mt. Fuji.

Today is not a clear day.

A café at the top has a piano that anyone can use. A very self-possessed little girl puts on an impressive performance.

This is Shibuya Crossing, in one of the busiest parts of Tokyo – a hectic place at the best of times.

Japan has its examples of minimalism and simplicity. It also has a lot of visual pollution.

Sight or Insight of the Day

We have to mention the impressive working garb of Japanese taxi drivers. This one is typical, with his dark suit, crisp white shirt, tie, polished shoes and white gloves. Just like in Ottawa.

This has been the norm everywhere we’ve been in Japan so far.

From Osaka it’s a brief train ride to Kyoto.

Kyoto Station is humming with activity. It’s a real people place.

Kyoto, the former Imperial capital of Japan for more than a thousand years, is one of Japan’s most historic cities.

The route to our lodgings takes us past this massive temple, the Higashi-hongan-ji, twice a day.

This chart in a chopstick store shows how to measure for your correct size. Who knew chopsticks had a size?

We spend an afternoon at the Fushimi Inari temple.

Like many temples, there are a lot of votive wishes being posted.

Notice these votive wishes in the shape of a fox head.

Foxes play a big part in the mythology of this particular temple. There are stone foxes everywhere.

Fushimi Inari is famous for its hundreds thousands of torii, or gates.

These remind us of Christo‘s 2005 installation, The Gates, in New York City. Not really surprising, because as it turns out, Christo’s work was inspired by this very temple.

In the evening, we return through town. Everywhere in urban Japan you see pachinko parlours.

People sit here at all hours of the day. The noise is deafening. Apparently, the average sound level reaches 92 decibels, about the same as standing under a passing commuter train. 

In contrast to this infernal din, the norm in Japan is to keep quiet and avoid unnecessary noise.

This is our kind of place. It’s clean. And quiet.

Sight or Insight of the Day – Kyoto

In Kyoto, we stay in a ryokan, that is, a traditional Japanese-style inn.

There’s a small garden outside our door.

And of course we have a hot bath.

We go to Hasedera for a day trip.

It’s a 40-KM train journey away. We pass through less densely-packed parts of town.

Hasedera village is tranquil and rural. You only hear the stream that runs through town.

The narrow main street is full of interesting shops.

It’s fun to browse. Maria buys a new wallet.

There are no non-Asian visitors here. It is off the (non-Asian) tourist map. Why are we here? In January 2016, we see Robert Lepage’s The Library at Night at the ‘national’ archives in Montreal.

Among its aspects is a VR (virtual reality, for those of you over a century old) tour of ten world libraries, some imaginary, some past and gone, some still in existence.

One was the rotating sutra library of the Hasedera monastery. Such a library is known a kyozo.

I find this so fascinating. I vow that if we ever go to Japan, we’ll seek out this library. (Thinking it not very likely, at the time.)

As it turns out, Hasedera happens to be located less than an hour from Osaka, where we first arrive. An uncanny coincidence.

So of course we make an effort to visit, since we’re in the vicinity.

While here, we touch the feet of the Buddha for good luck. Sorry, no photos allowed where the magic happens.

We have lunch in the village at a local restaurant.

Then back to town again. Did we mention that our place in Osaka has a resident cat?

His name is Akubi. Akubi means ‘yawning’, which he does a lot of. Usually just before napping. He has strangely short legs, like a dachshund or a corgi.

When he’s not prowling the hotel, he sits on a leash outside and lets adoring passers-by fuss over him.

You can see he’s just loving the attention we give him. </S>

Sight or Insight of the Day – Hasadera

In one of those exquisite ironies of travel, we arrive at the site of the Hasadera library in the temple grounds, years after first learning of it on a freezing Montreal January afternoon on the other side of the globe – and it’s closed. At least to the public.

Oh well. So it goes. This is what it looks like on the inside.

First of all – Happy Easter!

On our penultimate day in HK, we take the Ngong Ping 360 cable car to the big Buddha on Lantau Island.

We pass the airport from where we’ll be leaving for Japan. Built to replace Kai Tak, it’s built on reclaimed land and is quite the engineering feat.

A Chilean woman takes our photo.

After being blown around by strong winds pushing the cable car, we arrive.

A good place to have an escalator.

We arrive in Osaka at the tail end of cherry-blossom season.

‘So we grew together,
Like to a double cherry, seeming parted,
But yet a union in partition,
Two lovely berries molded on one stem.’ – A Midsummer Night’s Dream

Note the Sararīmen – the guys in suits – sitting on the benches, trying to stave off Karōshi.

The castle is surrounded by several moats, with curved walls built of enormous stones.

Osaka Castle has a long and turbulent history.

City view from the top of the castle.

Matcha-flavoured ice cream. Matcha is powdered green tea.

In a temple on the castle grounds, people tie small notes with their wishes on them to a fence.

We visit the Udema Sky Building.

A good place to watch the sun go down.

Riding the escalators in the top is fun.

Around our hotel are several small temples and cemeteries.

We’re fortunate to come across a rare exhibition of works by Vermeer and other Dutch masters at the Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts.

There’s a lot of commerce going on in Japan. Like most of Asia.

Sight or Insight of the Day

We admire this stackable garage in town.

We can imagine this becoming a thing in North America. Of course, it would have to be scaled up in size to accommodate two or three F-150 pickup trucks.

The sidewalks of Hong Kong are usually crowded with people.

Very different from the vast empty spaces of, say, Australia.

We wander around the Central district.

Today, a street stall provides lunch.

Sometimes we eat in fancier places. This is a dim sum restaurant recommend to us by our niece Julia.

We take the Peak Tram to Victoria Peak. As this is a ‘must-do’ for every visitor in town, there are enormous lines for entry.

The view is worth the long wait.

A sundowner on the Avenue of Stars. It’s Happy Hour.

This evening we happen to be at the waterfront just as the Symphony of Lights is beginning.

Maria signs up for a few yoga sessions in the nearby Peninsula Office Tower, linked to the famous Peninsula Hotel. The participants get a great view across the harbour.

These junk-like boats are a common sight.

Usually for tourist excursions. We use the iconic Star ferries to cross the harbour a few times as a change from taking the metro.

Early one morning, we go to Macau for a day trip on a fast catamaran. It takes about an hour.

There aren’t many Portuguese-speakers left, but the town still counts as part of the Mundo Lusófono.

Popular with Hong Kongers as a gambling Mecca. (There are no casinos in HK.)

The ruins of St. Paul’s church. Started in 1602 by the Jesuits.

Close up, the facade has an interesting blend of Western and Chinese elements.

A quiet alley is good for a rest.

We have lunch at the Restaurante Escada.

In the Macau Museum, we find this fascinating exhibit about cricket fighting. Below is a cricket fighting ‘arena’, some cricket cages and porcelain food bowls, and four ‘cricket ticklers’ with rat-whisker bristles.

Sight or Insight of the Day – Hong Kong and Macau

Hong Kong has some hellishly steep places.

Luckily, for lazy people there is the Central-Mid-levels escalator.

You have to walk down, though.

We can think of a few cities that could use something like this.

We arrive in Hong Kong after an 11-hour overnight flight from Auckland.

There are more people in Hong Kong (7.4 million) than in New Zealand (4.8 million).

I’ve wanted to come here ever since reading the absorbing James Clavell novels Tai Pan and Noble House decades ago. Maria read them too, much more recently.

We stay in a guesthouse in Chungking Mansions. We had no idea it was kind of famous/notorious. It’s certainly interesting – like a termite mound of humanity. Or a labyrinth. Or a rabbit warren. It reminds me of an ancient Roman insula.

There are light wells that open onto steampunk-esque vistas.

In fact, a lot of Hong Kong has a Blade Runner look and feel to it. The flashy skyscrapers and shopping malls are interspersed with densely-populated blocks of flats.

We purchase some local duds from a friendly woman at a Kowloon street stall.

We walk down busy Nathan Road in the evening, heading for the Temple Street night market.

We visit the Hong Kong Museum of History. Among the exhibits is a full-scale replica of a Cantonese Opera playhouse.

Including a view of the backstage. Much like we imagine an Elizabethan theatre.

Sight or Insight of the Day – Hong Kong

A notable detail about being back in Asia: the habit that many people have of wearing surgical masks.

Apparently this began as a (not very effective) preventative measure during the various outbreaks of airborne disease in Asia few years ago.

But now, many people seem to wear them as a fashion statement. As if it’s normal.

We find this so bizarre. It’s like being trapped in an episode of Black Mirror. It also makes people difficult to understand: in addition to being soft-spoken in general, a strong accent and a covered mouth make service-persons even harder to understand when they ‘re wearing a mask.

That is, ‘Farewell’, in good round English.

Time for a brief roundup of our journey back to Auckland. We spend a night in Mangawhai Heads.

We discover on this trip that a bowl of water set on the ground is a sure-fire duck attractant. They like to drink, or wash their beaks, or both.

One duck in particular spends all day with us. She sleeps at our feet, centimetres away. She has a pronounced limp when she waddles. We name her Jemma.

There’s no shortage of ducks in many NZ campgrounds.

We stop at Owera for a couple of days. Only 40 kilometres north of Auckland, it’s a relaxed beach town. Very popular for kitesurfing. Not surprising, given the gale-force winds that blow here.

A lot of activities in NZ involve jumping off of bridges, leaping out of airplanes, rafting down foaming rivers – you get the picture. Thankfully, we have transcended this age of adrenaline addiction.

In Auckland, we spend an afternoon at the zoo. We see some NZ animals, like keas.

I finally get to see a tuatara. Like most ground-dwelling creatures here, they are almost extinct.

We see kiwis in the kiwi house. (Q. where do New Zealanders go for information online? A. Kiwipedia)

We enjoy the Australian section for the wave of nostalgia we feel for that country’s awesome critters. For instance, they have a great Tasmanian devil enclosure.

We hope he strikes a more fearsome pose for the camera. He doesn’t disappoint.

Which reminds me, we book an appointment with a dentist while in Auckland.

Continuing the Aussie animal theme, we come across a pair of brolga cranes. Brolgas are well known for their graceful courtship dancing. In this case, one of the pair is totally uninterested.

I commune with a brace of emus.

We like the red panda. Looks like the love-child of a fox and a racoon.

Sight or Insight of the Day – Haere rā

We come full circle. When we first arrived in Auckland, I took advantage of the irresistible photo opp offered by this Vincent Street window. A few months and 7,500 kilometres later, it’s Maria’s turn.

So long, New Zealand. Thanks for being here for the world.

Back in windy Wellington.

We spend the large part of a day at the Te Papa museum. It’s huge.

With Easter coming up, Whittaker’s, an NZ chocolatier, makes chocolate kiwis.

The road to New Plymouth. The most prominent feature in this part of the country is Mount Taranaki, a dormant volcano.

Near Hamilton, we visit Raglan Beach. Popular with surfers.

The black sand is common on this side of the North Island.

Our next stop is Karekare Beach.

This is where the stunning beach scenes from Jane Campion’s classic ‘The Piano‘ were filmed.

Less than an hour’s drive from Auckland, it feels like the end of the earth.

It must’ve been a challenge filming here. The only access is by steep, narrow, twisting roads – not the best for transporting cast, crew, and equipment.

Next to Russel (via Whangarei) and the beautiful Bay of Islands. We make an excursion to Otehei Bay, on Urupukapuka Island.

We enjoy an outdoor lunch.

The island has lots of rewarding easy walks.

There is supposed to be the remains of a Maori pa on this headland. We can’t find any trace.

We drive north to Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of New Zealand. (At least, the northernmost point that is convenient to get to.)

Because there is no alternative, we stay at the Department of Conservation campsite at Tapotupotu. No electricity or amenities besides basic toilets, but very pretty in its isolation.

Our time in Australasia draws to a close. I’m going to miss the long-distance drives. I enjoy the ever-changing scenery. And turning things over in my mind. Ruminatin’ and illuminatin’ on the state of the world. Who knows, maybe I think too much.

We can’t go any further north – we return south. We stop at the giant Te Puki sand dunes that reach up to 100 metres.

After a few relaxing nights at Whatuwhiwhi on the Karikari peninsula, we drive to the Waipoua Forest and its gigantic kauri trees.

They really are majestic.

Our caravan park has a ‘kiwi rescue’ vehicle. We’re not sure how the onboard equipment is useful for rescuing kiwis.

We imagine a time when much of the North Island looked like this.

This inspires us to visit the Kauri Museum in Matakohe.

Sight or Insight of the Day – North Island Rambles

Kauri trees suffer from a disease called kauri dieback. The NZ government is doing all it can to protect surviving trees.

This includes obligatory decontamination of all footwear before entering kauri forests.

Everyone has to follow the rules.

The people and the government of New Zealand have put a lot of thought, money, and resources into this effort.

Somewhere in an earlier entry, we mention how the authorities and governments in Southeast Asia – the very people who should be protecting the natural patrimony of their countries – are in fact at the forefront of hacking down any remaining trees of value and replacing them with palm oil plantations for themselves and their cronies.

I’m not much of a tree-hugger, but I wonder with Bruce Cockburn – ‘if a tree falls in the forest, does anybody hear the forest fall?’

From further south, we drive up to Oamaru, a pretty little town. (Few towns in NZ are not.)

It’s the home of an upcoming Steampunk Festival.

Frankly, ‘steampunk‘ is a phenomenon that I just don’t get. But Oamaru has other attractions.

There are penguins.

And seals.

And water birds.

We head for Mt. Cook. We stop to stretch our legs at a rest stop that contains some Maori rock art.

We are back in the mountainous interior.

We eventually come to Lake Pukaki. Difficult to tell in this photo, but it’s an unearthly blue.

The lake is fed by the glacial melt of the Tasman River.

Approaching Mt. Cook, NZ’s highest peak.

These signs are regular sights around the country.

We stop at a salmon farm and leave with lots of smoked goodies for the road.

We think Kiwi deserves a gift. Somewhere along the way, we find an inexpensive paua-shell necklace.

Kiwi is almost exactly like Matilda in Australia in layout and reliability. It feels like being home.

‘Life rocks, when your living room rolls!’

.We spend a few days at beautiful Lake Tekapo.

The morning of our departure, a mist hangs over the lake.

Zagging back out to the east coast, we drive across a scenic road on the ridge of the Banks Peninsula. Poor Kiwi’s brakes heat up like an oven on these steep, twisty roads.

On this particular day, the landscape is as stark and brooding and enigmatic as a Nick Cave composition.

Next day is sunnier.

The town of Akaroa itself was founded by a handful of French families in the 1830s.

We stay in a campground above town with a panoramic view.

We then zig once more across the island over to Nelson, via Hanmer Springs and the Lewis Pass. And zag back to Blenheim in the Marlborough region to stock up on wine and visit the local Marlborough Museum. Of course it has an interesting permanent exhibit about the local wine industry. We enjoy a section about the cork-versus-screw-cap controversy. The results in New Zealand:

Then it’s a quick drive to Picton for the ferry back to the North Island.

Sight or Insight of the Day

Passing through the town of Little River, we see this unique accommodation constructed entirely of silos.

Having spent over ten years building silos in Europe at one time, I have to stop and investigate. I must admit, I often thought a modified silo would make an interesting dwelling.

Apparently I’m not the only one.