After the fleshpots of Sydney, we are happy to be back in the outback again.
Iconic bottle trees
The northwest of Australia is known for its picturesque bottle trees. Essentially baobabs, like in Africa.
The endless vistas and empty roads suit us down to the ground.
The wide, brown land for me
After returning from Sydney, we spend a last evening with Lauretta at Darwin’s Deck Chair Cinema. While lounging on beanbags at the front, one of the DCC’s famous possums casually strolls over Lauretta’s pillow and finishes off her dish of Middle Eastern salad – mere centimetres away – with the aplomb and casualness of a house cat.
We stop at Victoria River, NT overnight before arriving in the state of Western Australia the next day. One of the first roadhouses we come to has a chute for disposing of live cane toads, a real pest here.
Toad in the hole
We flee Hall’s Creek early in the morning of my birthday after – barely – escaping the predations of larcenous locals around the caravan park. We stop for breakfast at a roadside halt that is covered with corella parrots.
Carpet of corellas
We never tire of seeing parrots everywhere here; we’re such tourists. There’s something uplifting about parrots.
We arrive in Broome, WA, a relaxed sort of town.
Breakfast on the Bay, Broome
After learning about local history at the Broome Museum – the pearl industry, dinosaur footprints, and aircraft relics from WWII Japanese air raids – we head to Cable Beach.
Seaside park at Cable BeachCable Beach
The next day, we spend an unexpected night at the Roebuck Plains roadhouse caravan park when the road south to Port Hedland is closed because of a bushfire.
Beyond the black stump
Eventually, we carry on to Eighty Mile Beach.
The road to Eighty Mile Beach
Like the beaches of Broome, the waters of Eighty Mile Beach are a lovely turquoise.
Eighty Mile Beach caravan parkSundown on Eighty Mile Beach
On the way south again. We stop for coffee at the Whim Creek Pub.
Whim Creek pub
I recall stopping at this pub my previous time in Australia. I got a multi-day lift with someone named Risto (a Finnish name). He worked at the Goldsworthy iron ore mine. He drove a green VW 1600 fastback. It never ceases to amaze how the brain retains such trivia when sometimes I can’t remember which day of the week it is.
Peacocks at the Whim Creek Pub
Sight or Insight of the Day – Back in the Outback
We see a shark. Close up.
While at Eighty-Mile Beach, Maria wants to go swimming. The caravan park management suggests she does not. A few hours later, we watch the sun go down and see a shark not ten metres away in the improbably shallow water offshore. He must be at least two metres long – his dorsal fin and tail fin stick out of the water as he cruises up and down the beach. That was really cool!
Maria manages to get this fuzzy photo of me in the foreground and the shark nearby. It’s quite dark by this time, so the performance of our little camera is impressive.
Just when we are finally reveling in the the tropical heat of Darwin, it’s time for an 11-day Sydney interlude. We reluctantly leave Matilda in the long-term parking at Darwin airport and fly across the country to the still-wintry urban frenzy of Sydney. Our niece, Julia, is visiting from Canada.
We look forward to seeing Julia again. After she spends a few days in Hong Kong and Macao, we arrange to meet in Sydney. Julia is always good at scouting out excellent Airbnb properties. This time is no exception – we move into a quaint renovated old home in the gentrified neighbourhood of Pyrmount.
Our little house in Little Mount Street, Pyrmount
Maria and Julia go out on the town.
Maria and Julia enjoy some seafoodOn the Pyrmont Bridge
The Sydney Fish Market is a few minutes walk from our place.
Boy meets gill
Julia really, really wants to interact with some koalas. We attend a ‘breakfast with the koalas’ event at Wild Life Sydney Zoo.
Cora the koala leans in
There are lots of koalas. They’re all predictably adorable. You just want to squish them. But no touching allowed.
The mother and child reunion is only a motion away
I can cross ‘pet a wombat’ off my bucket list.
The word ‘porcine’ comes to mind
Julia and I clown around at the wombat enclosure.
Sydney interlude
Fun fact: wombat dung is cube-shaped.
Julia and a wallaby share highlighting secrets.
Mr. Gorbachev – tear down this wallaby
We rent a car and drive to the viniferous Hunter Valley. We visit half a dozen wineries by bike.
Bicycles built for twoI bring up the rearKangaroos among the vines – spring time?
Back in Sydney, we decide to eat in one evening for a change. Maria prepares some kangaroo steaks.
….accompanied by a fine Hunter Valley red
One night, we go to the Sydney Opera House to see…an opera! Rossini’s The Turk in Italy, with the setting delightfully transposed to 1950’s Italy.
Everyone has a good time. This production is very colourful.
On another day, we rent a car and go for an overnight trip to the Blue Mountains.
On the way to Wentworth FallsIn the Blue MountainsYes, it’s cold. Very cold.
Julia finds us a four-bedroom house in Katoomba on Airbnb. It’s a bargain at 94 AUD per night.
The Blue House
Next day, we walk the misty Jamison Valley at the foot of the Three Sisters.
Rain, forestWaterfall in the Jamison Valley
Back in Sydney the next day just in time to see a pop-up Globe production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream.
Unlike the real reconstructed Globe in London – which we have had the good fortune to attend – this one is not permanent. Hence, pop-up.
A Midsummer Night’s Dream
It’s a New Zealand troupe performing. Shakespeare’s ‘rude mechanicals’ are dressed as tradies (Australian for ‘tradespersons’). The fairies are Maori warriors, delivering most of their lines in Maori.
It is hilarious. Just like 400 years ago.
Maria and Julia spend an afternoon at Bondi Beach while I stay home and binge on Netflix movies.
Bondi Beach in winterExpensive Bondi real estate
That evening, we meet at a Malaysian restaurant and walk home.
Darling Harbour at night.
Maria and Julia surprise me one night with a slightly early birthday celebration.
Birthday gelato
We visit the Museum of Contemporary Arts. We see a retrospective of works by John Mawurndjul.
John Mawurndjul exhibit
All are on bark.
Dreaming
All have unbelievably fine cross-hatching work that we learn is known as ‘rarrk‘. Try using that in your next game of Scrabble.
Rarrk patterns
Alas, the day arrives when Julia flies home. We really enjoy spending time with her.
Maria and I have one more evening in Sydney to see The Comedy of Errors at the pop-up Globe.
Our revels now are ended
The next day – our last in Sydney for now – is sunny and warm, the first Spring-like day so far here.
Sydney landmarksWe visit Luna Park – another Sydney landmark
It’s been fun, Sydney, but we’ll be happy to get back to the wide open spaces again.
Sight or Insight of the Day – Sydney interlude
We mention several times that one thing we enjoy about traveling is discovering new things. This happens again when we re-visit the Museum of Sydney. There is a wonderful temporary exhibit: Bohemian Harbour; Artists of Lavender Bay‘.
Chief among these is Brett Whiteley, well-known in Australia but a new name for us.
We spend our last morning visiting his studio in the neighbourhood of Surry Hills.
This matches the address we have
The lower level contains one of his masterworks, the multi-panel piece ‘Alchemy‘.
The upper level is much as he left it. A nice touch is the music playing throughout the studio, selections from Whiteley’s collection. Most of it is familiar from my own music-listening era.
Brett Whiteley Studio
I flip through his CDs and LPs. One album makes me look twice – the Dire Straits live album ‘Alchemy’.
Sure enough, the cover art is the work ‘Alchemy’ that we just examined downstairs.
Heroin was Whiteley’s eventual downfall. This work of his sums up nicely what heroin can do to your sense of perception.
Whiteley’s heroin clock
In the afternoon, we visit Lavender Bay itself.
Lavender Bay view
It’s definitely not cheap any more. Sydney suffers from the same pathologically overinflated real estate prices as Toronto and Vancouver, for much the same reasons.
Whiteley’s ex-wife Wendy still lives at 1 Walker Street. She has spent a quarter century building a beautiful garden – open to all – below her house.
1 Walker Street, from Wendy’s Garden
The neighbourhood is much more sedate compared to the drug- and alcohol-fuelled bacchanalias described in the Museum of Sydney exhibit.
These days, the majority of its fleet of aircraft are Pilatus, of Swiss manufacture.
Stoke’s Hill Wharf is a popular place to hang out.
Wharf speed
I look forward to reaching Darwin to reconnect with an old friend, Lauretta. I first met Lauretta on a kibbutz in Israel. She was influential in my decision to visit Australia many years ago. A few years later, she convinced me to go to Africa for the first time, where she worked as a teacher in Selebe Phikwe, Botswana.
Long time, no see
Lauretta – originally from Sydney – is now a long-time resident of Darwin. She owns and manages a very successful shop selling aboriginal art and used books.
One reason for its success, I’m sure, is that Lauretta is very simpatico with aboriginal people. (She’s always had this gift, which is probably why she’s been comfortable living in remote places for much of her life.)
Maria watches Sonda Turner Nambitjinpa painting in front of Lauretta’s shop
We go for dinner and watch the sundown on Stoke’s Hill Wharf.
Sea, food
At Mindil Beach, there’s a popular sundown market twice a week.
Mindil Beach
Lauretta has a regular stall here as well. We stand amazed at how busy Lauretta’s stall is. At one point, the transactions are non-stop. Still, she makes time to socialize.
Lauretta chats with local kidsLauretta chats with friendsLauretta chats with old white guy
Hundreds gather to watch the sun go down.
Sunset in Fannie Bay
When in Rome…
Mindil Beach tourists
We visit the excellent Darwin Aviation Museum. It’s across the road from our caravan park.
The prize exhibit is a B-52 bomber, one of the few on display outside of the United States.
‘I’m guided by the beauty of our weapons…’
– Leonard Cohen
It takes up most of the interior. It is gigantic.
Dwarfed
Sight or Insight of the Day – Darwin
Lauretta mentions that she has a friend nearby with a wallaby joey in her care. This we have to see.
Lauretta’s friend brings him out nestled in a cloth pouch, where he spends most of his time.
This is Freddy
His mother was struck and killed by a car. Someone checked the mother’s pouch and Freddy was still alive inside.
Lauretta’s friend is a certified wildlife carer, not an eccentric amateur animal rescuer. Still, she admits it’ll be hard to pass him on to the next phase of rehabilitation back to the wild.
Cutest. Thing. Ever.
He is unbelievably cute. We spend ten or fifteen minutes fussing over him, which he clearly likes.
We make a dash from the NT into South Australia to visit Coober Pedy. Then it’s back up the Stuart Highway from Coober Pedy to Kakadu.
(A few months ago, we posted a list of things we’ll miss about Southeast Asia. Little did we know that one item would be universal WiFi available free from virtually everywhere. Even in retrograde laggards like Myanmar, Laos, and Cambodia.
WiFi is hard to come by in Australia, at least in the remote regions we find ourselves in lately. One result is these long, unwieldy blog entries at infrequent intervals. Our apologies.)
As we leave King’s Canyon, we spot these camels on the side of the road.
Roadside attraction
At one time, camels – imported from India – were the only form of transport. When roads and trains appeared, the camels were released into the wild.
In a few hours, we’re in South Australia.
It’s really flat.
Coober Pedy is famous for its opal mines. The methodology seems to be: dig a hole, check for opals, move over a few metres, repeat.
We visit the Old Timer Mine. This mine was sealed, forgotten, then rediscovered in recent times.
Coober Pedy
This is a leftover prop spacecraft from the cheesy Vin Diesel sci-fi flick Pitch Black. The area is a popular movie location. Did we mention it’s already ‘other-worldly’?
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Coober Pedy is also known for its underground dwellings.
The main reason we hot-foot it to Coober pedy is to book two seats on the Mail Run. Basically, this is a man with a contract to deliver mail to remote cattle stations twice a week. He takes passengers.
At the Dingo Fence
This is the Dingo Fence. North of the fence is cattle country, south of the fence is sheep country.
We’re happy that the vehicle used is no longer a bus. These days, Peter limits his passengers to four in a comfy 4WD, with a trailer for the mail.
Peter at the wheel
He is an inexhaustible supply of yarns, local knowledge, and bush folksiness.
We journey 600 kilometres from Coober Pedy to Williams Creek, up the Oodnadatta Track to Oodnadata, then back to CP.
We wonder if this is an example of the wry Australian sense of humour.
Nope, it’s really a freezer full of frozen kangaroo tails.
We overnight in Tennant Creek and make it as far as Daly Waters the next day. At the outskirts of Daly Waters is an airfield. This was swarming with bombers and other aircraft during WWII.
Daly Waters aerodrome
There are a surprising amount of WWII sites up here. This area was largely vacant at the time – still is – but to paraphrase Samuel Johnson, the threat of encroaching Japan overrunning one’s country concentrates the mind wonderfully.
This is also the land of ‘We of the Never Never‘. This is an Australian classic describing life in the outback at the turn of the last century on remote Elsey Station.
Elsey cemeteryMemorial at the site of Elsey Station
In Kakadu National Park, we see more water and greenery than we’ve seen in a month.
Termite mounds, Kakadu National parkYellow Waters, KakaduCrocodile basking, Kakadu
In Kakadu is Nourlangie Rock. Besides being a stunning formation in itself, it’s home to much Aboriginal paintings.
Rock art, NourlangieRock art, NourlangieRock art, NourlangieMaria at NourlangieBush burning in Kakadu
Sight or Insight of the Day – Coober Pedy to Kakadu
We wonder if the name ‘Kakadu’ is cognate with ‘Cockatoo’.
Apparently the answer is ‘no’. Maybe it’s just a coincidence, but we’ve never seen so many cockatoos anywhere else. Of all kinds: sulphur-crested, red-tail and white-tail blacks, corellas.
Black cockatoos solemnly enjoying gum nuts
I always consider how much cockatoos sell for in North American pet shops. As a squawky flock flies over head, I think ‘there goes $100,000-worth of cockatoos.’
Oh, wait a minute – that’s a photo of the surface of Mars. This is a photo of the Australian landscape as viewed from our maiden voyage in a helicopter.
Red centre!
We drive down the Stuart Highway to Alice Springs.
Alice Springs isn’t the most picturesque of towns. It’s the closest thing to urban that we see in a while, so we spend a few days here. We visit a few museums, such as the excellent Central Australia Museum.
These are both in the Araluen Cultural District, conveniently just across the street from our caravan park.
Sculpture in Araluen Cultural District
Megafauna Central is another impressive museum just opened in town. It features the story of big animals that used to exist until the arrival of humans in Australia, then became extinct shortly thereafter. Just like North America, where megafauna roamed the continent until the arrival of humans. Coincidence? I think not.
The grounds of our caravan park are home to birdlife galore. A flock of galahs do a Galah Quadrille on the front lawn.
Will you, won’t you, will you, won’t you, will you join the dance?
(You may notice that we really like galahs.)
We want to visit the secret CIA base at Pine Gap, but can’t even find a road sign to it. No big surprise.
On the way out of town, we pass a memorial to John Flynn. John Flynn is the man who started the Flying Doctor Service in 1923, as related in another entry.
John Flynn’s final resting place
We do a loop near the West MacDonnell Range.
West MacDonnell Range from the co-pilot’s seat
Along the way, we stop at these places:
Ellery Creek Big HoleGlen Helen Gorge
We spend the night at Glen Helen.
Matilda, Queen of the DesertMaria cooks up some kangaroo burgers on our mini IKEA BBQOrmiston GorgeOrmiston Gorge from the trail above
We see the crater of Tnorala in the distance. The Cole’s Notes version of its origins:
‘Scientists believe that around 142.5 million years ago an object from space, believed to be a comet about 600m wide, crashed to earth, blasting a crater roughly 20km across. Today’s land surface is about 2km lower than the original impact surface and the bluff is about 5km in diameter, reduced over time by erosion.’
Tnorala, from Tyler’s Pass lookout
This is the house of artist Albert Namatjira. We first hear of him at the Queensland Art Gallery. We rave about the QAG in an earlier post.
A mission founded by hardy – or optimistic – Germans in the 1870’s.
Hermannsburg settlement
Also home of the Hermannsburg Potters, whom we also first hear about at the Queensland Art Gallery. We consider purchasing one of their pieces but don’t find anything that matches our living-room curtains. Just kidding.
People in Hermannsburg let their stock wander free around town.
♫ ‘Go right to the source and ask the horse, He’ll give you the answer that you’ll endorse…’♪
Returning to Alice Springs on our way south, we visit the Desert Park. This is a good place to see elusive denizens of the outback up close.
Like these thorny devils.
You thorny devil!
Or these beautiful red-tailed black cockatoos.
<squawk!> Black lives matter! Black lives matter! <squawk!>
This is a place of splendid isolation. Fifteen kilometres down a dirt track deters casual visitors.
Hole Earth catalog
Turns out you can camp here. We plan to do so on our way back north. No amenities but an outhouse (delightfully known here as a ‘dunny’).
On the Lasseter Highway. People sometimes mistake their first glimpse of Mount Connor for Ayer’s Rock.
Auto-timer shot, Mount Connor in the background
We spend a few days around Ayer’s Rock (or Uluru).
Ayer’s Rock from afar
A quote from the Lonely Planet Australia guide:
‘There are some world-famous sights touted as unmissable that
end up being a let-down when you actually see them. And then
there’s Uluru: nothing can really prepare you for the immensity, grandeur, changing colour and stillness of ‘the Rock’. It really is a sight that will sear itself onto your mind.‘
Kind of hard to disagree. For something that’s just a rock, it’s pretty monolith-errific.
One day we walk around the entire rock. We dress for the blasting wind and surprisingly low temperatures.
Sunny, with a chance of frostbite
Different sections of the rock have their own characteristics.
Like a wave inside a waveSome aboriginal things of significanceGawkin’ ’round the Rock
We also go to the Olgas (Kata Tjuta) a couple of times.
The Olgas from afar
We do some hiking in the area.
The Valley of the Winds trek
Eventually we pack up and drive a few hundred KMs to King’s Canyon.
Check out the cork hatKing’s Canyon
There are blackened trees around that give the place a Mordor-esque quality.
‘ T’was in the darkest depths of Mordor…’
These are wave ripples in what used to be the bottom of a sea.
Ripples in timeFootsteps of AtlantisTaking a break
An exciting development – we are offered a heavily discounted helicopter ride. Neither of us have been in a helicopter before.
Get to the choppa!
And off we go.
We spot Matilda in the caravan park. Of course, she’s parked sideways when everyone else parks straight in.
Odd girl out
Aboriginal hamlet of Lilla. Population 15.
Lilla of the valleyFormationsKing’s CanyonThe George Gill rangeThe George Gill rangeGoin’ down that long lonesome road
Nothing like a ride in a helicopter to drive home the vastness and the emptiness of this part of the world.
A Tale of Two Dingoes – Red Centre
At the King’s Canyon caravan park, we notice several signs about dingoes.
Sign in Reception
There are more signs around the park.
Sign in the ablutions block
They even have anti-dingo gates in the ablutions blocks.
Dingoes not permitted
We think this is slight overkill. We haven’t seen any dingoes in the wild so far.
Imagine our surprise when we leave the car park at King’s Canyon to find a dingo casually loping along beside the road.
D-I-N-G-O, and Dingo was his name!
The same evening, we see another in our caravan park. It strolls across our path at a distance of three metres – twice – and pays us no attention at all.
This is interesting, because we just downloaded and watched A Cry in the Dark the previous evening.
An interesting sign on the door of the restrooms in the garden.
‘…And I will put enmity between thee and the woman…’
Also in the garden – noisy flocks of corellas.
Apparently, we’re a Corella draw
Cloncurry is a bustling place – a new zinc mine opened nearby in 2017. The caravan park we stay at is home to scores – maybe hundreds – of workers. There’s an air of dynamism and full employment and money sloshing around.
Bravo, Australia. I get the feeling that if anyone proposes a mine – or any other extractive activity – in Canada these days, people start squealing like their hair’s on fire. Don’t know where they think the money that comes out of the money taps comes from.
Speaking of mines: our next stop down the slab is Mt. Isa.
Mt. Isa’s raison d’être also lies in mining.
Mt. Isa skyline
We take an underground mine tour. Also underground is this hospital.
Subterranean Homesick Blues
After the Japanese bombed Darwin in WWII, people feared metals-rich Mt. Isa could be next. So the hospital built an annex underground, with the help of the local miners.
Both tours are led by local retired miners. Interesting characters, to be sure.
We cross into the Northern Territory and overnight in Barkly Homestead.
NT vista
Maria wants a photo of a ‘Watch for kangaroos’ sign.
Maria hams it up for the camera
Ever since driving inland, this is the routine: every few hundred kilometres is a roadhouse, with a hotel/shop/caravan park/fuel etc.
Barrow Creek roadhouse
In between is a lot of nothing. It’s a good thing we both love empty landscapes. The emptier the better.
Northern Territory
We like these ghost gums; they look as if someone’s slathered them with a bucket of whitewash.
Maria hams it up for the camera, part II
This is the telegraph station at Barrow Creek. This is one of a series, some of which are still around.
Barrow Creek telegraph station
Sight or Insight of the Day – Northern Territory
An axiom of mine is, ‘Don’t say that you’ll never be in a particular location again that you’ve been to before, however unlikely.’
We come to Three Ways, where the Stuart Highway that goes north-south and joins Adelaide to Darwin meets the highway that stretches east to the coast of Queensland.
This intersection has changed surprisingly little since I spent the better part of a day here 38 years ago while hitch-hiking around Australia.
It’s déjà vu all over again.
I spent seven hours here waiting for a lift. I would sit on my rucksack, reading a book. When a vehicle came along – every half-hour or so – I would stand up and try to look non-threatening. I eventually landed a ride all the way to Townsville, if I remember correctly.
How times have changed. ‘…even children get older, and I’m getting older, too.’
As at the Undara lava tubes, the original owners/lessors of the property struck a deal with the government to develop natural attractions in return for giving over large parts of their property to become parkland. Tourism is probably a safer bet than cattle raising out here.
Maria and the Cobbold GorgePaperbarkCobbold GorgeCobbold GorgeCobbold Gorge
We overnight in the tiny hamlet of Georgetown. Evening brings a flock of galahs in the wires overhead.
The din is indescribable
On the road east next day. In some places, the highway narrows to a single lane. Approaching vehicles both move half onto the gravel.
Game of ‘chicken’, anyone?
Maria is really tickled by these signs in particular.
Beware of hitting gigantic cattle
We stop for lunch in Croydon, another former mining centre.
Everyone meets at the Club Hotel
Our orders of fish and chips contain enormous hunks of barramundi.
Pub lunch
We continue to Normanton. From there to Karumba Point, on the Gulf of Carpentaria.
The road between Normanton and Point Karumba is flat as a pancake.
Flat earth society
We see many Brolga cranes, but as soon as we stop to take a photo, they take off.
Behind the caravan park are mobs of wallabies. Some of them like coming up to the fence to study the humans inside.
Queensland outback
Karumba Point has a wonderful, end-of-the-world feel to it.
¡Ay, Karumba!
It’s a popular thing here to gather at the shore and watch the sun go down.
When in Rome…Some impromptu beach artGetting ready for a sundownerSun sinks into the Gulf of Carpentaria
We head south down the Matilda Highway to Cloncurry.
Cloncurry rock formation
Sight or Insight of the Day – Queensland outback
In the nearly four decades since I was last here, colloquial Australian English has evolved into a broad-vowelled dialect that can be hard for outsiders to decipher. I’m reminded of an episode in one of Paul Theroux’s books in which he shares a compartment on an Indian train with a group of young locals. It takes ten minutes for him to realize that the group is actually conversing in English.
For example, we go on a mine tour in Mt. Isa. At the end, Maria asks me ‘What’s a ‘fayday’? She tells me the guide has repeatedly instructed participants not to forget our ‘faydays’ before we leave.
Eventually we learn that the word is ‘photos‘: everyone gets a photo of themselves taken at the mine entrance.
From Cairns, we make plans to head for the Queensland interior. We drive north to Port Douglas.
James Cook Highway, between Cairns and Port Douglas
Port Douglas is too crowded for us. This must be peak season for visitors. We decide to travel a bit further north to Mossman.
Before we leave PD, we sample some meat pies for lunch. One is crocodile pie and one is kangaroo pie. The crust is stamped accordingly.
Neither taste like chicken
Mossman is much less frenzied. We visit the Mossman Gorge.
Bridge over the Mossman RiverRoots, rock, reggae
Back at the interpretation centre, we spot this enormous spider. I ask Maria to put her hand near it for comparison. She obliges.
Big-ass spider
On the other side of a mountain range, the land changes from rain forest to fertile farmland. We pass though patches of forest with signs to look out for Lumholtz’s tree-kangaroos. We don’t see any, though.
Hill and dale
It doesn’t take long for the terrain to become Outback-y. This is the track we take to the Kalkani Crater.
Queensland interior
We climb to the crater’s rim
View of Matilda far below in the parking lot.
There are wallabies around the trail.
The aptly-named Pretty-faced wallaby
We camp in Undara Lodge. We awake to two galahs squawking overhead.
A galah event
The hawk flying by at the same moment was a happy accident.
Lava tubeAt the mouth of a lava tubeThe guide points out bats
We carry on to the remote hamlet of Einasleigh. Lots of red dirt, like Prince Edward Island.
…or like Prince Edward Island with eucalyptus trees
We have lunch and a beer at Einasleigh’s sole hotel.
The only place in town
Surprisingly, the young woman behind the bar is from Boston. The many people in Australia with work visas are encouraged to work at least three months in remote locations.
The draw here is the Copperfield Gorge.
Maria and the Copperfield GorgeRock formationCopperfield Gorge
Sight or Insight of the Day – Queensland interior
A guide tells us that the thousands of pensioners – ‘grey nomads’ – traveling around Australia these days are improving the economy of the outback. They actually pay money for things like guided tours and stay in nicer resorts. This in turn creates jobs for locals so everybody doesn’t pack their tents and move to Sydney or Melbourne. Nice to know that the boomer generation is good for something.
We have a good time in Cairns (which seems to be pronounced ‘Cains‘ – like the economist.) Getting here is fun, too.
(Note: because WiFi is difficult to come across in Australia – unless there’s something we’re missing – we’re a bit late in our blog entries. We’re already halfway across Queensland. To avoid confusion, we’re adding posts as WiFi becomes available. So we may be a week or two behind.)
Our last day in Horseshoe Bay
Some of the inhabitants of our caravan park have a sense of humour.
Sign of the times
We continue up the coast to Cairns. This is the beach at Flying Fish point.
Not a croc in sightFlying Fish Point, near Innisfail
This is typical countryside in the north of Queensland. Lots of sugarcane. Sweet!
En route to Cairns
Like most places in this part of Queensland,there are crocodiles everywhere.
A pride of lion-fishStonefish – highly venomous, and no great beautyNewborn epaulette sharks, looking a lot like salamandersSeahorse
I remember Cairns as being rougher and more frontier-like. Now it’s a very civilized place.
The Lagoon, a watery playground on the Esplanade
We visit the excellent Botanical Gardens.
Giant houseplant
In the conservatory is a beautiful selection of orchids.
Orchids
Of course, most people come here for some sort of Great Barrier Reef experience. We book a snorkeling tour for the day.
Steaming out of Cairns
Among the youthful, international crew is a professional underwater photographer. She does a good job of snapping GoPro-deprived punters like us.
Two marine mammalsWaving? Or drowning?Spot the Nemo fish
The experience is very unlike our idyllic snorkels in the Togian Islands. There, the water was like glass. The sea was calm, with a temperature like bathwater. The coral was spectacular, the fish teeming. In the two locations we visit here, the sea is much rougher than we expect. The water is kind of cloudy. And cold. We’re tossed around like corks. I’m sure there are many places in the thousand-plus kilometers of the Great Barrier Reef with amazing snorkeling; we’re happy to have had our time in the Togian Islands.
Still, it’s a grand day out.
Reef ahoy
We’re happy we went to the aquarium in Cairns, too. Like reef viewing from the comfort of dry land.
Maria models her new swimsuit
We enjoy a ride in a glass-bottom boat – our first.
Giant clam-shell through the glass-bottom boat
This is our non-glass bottom boat.
Our ride
Sight or Insight of the Day – Cairns
In our earlier travels, several times we find ourselves near famous whale-watching locales, such as Husavik, Iceland, and Hermanus, South Africa. We ask each other if we want to go watch whales and inexplicably say ‘Meh… no thanks.’
Despite being jaded cosmopolitans, we’re pretty chuffed when, on the return trip, the captain announces our boat is slowing down because there’s a whale between us and another vessel.
Thar she blows!
Our resident marine biologist – yes, our boat had one – informs us it’s a juvenile humpback whale.
Brisbane is delightful. I didn’t even stop here in 1979-80: at the time, Queensland was under the conservative Bjelke-Petersen regime, and Brisbane was probably the un-hippest city in Australia.
How times change. Brisbane is a thriving, forward-looking kind of place.
On the Brisbane River
We visit the Queensland Art Gallery. It’s one of the best we’ve ever been to. And we’ve been to lots of galleries around the world.
I especially like the whimsical touch of the real jacaranda blossoms on the floor under the painting.
Lots of native art as well.
Poles apartMe, a loud shirt, and a Brisbane city squareMaria and some kangaroos made from car parts……and the Real ThingYou can call me ‘Joey’.
We drive up the coast to Noosa Heads. This is too overcrowded for us. We continue to less populated beaches.
Palmerston Cove
Many are nearly deserted – one blessing of living in a sparsely-populated land.
Palmerston Cove
We follow the advice of a man we meet in a caravan park, who suggests a few picturesque places to stay on our way north.
Rather than spend every day driving, we find a spot we like and spend a few nights there and relax during the day.
Horseshoe Bay
Still, driving is fun. We observe the scenery. We listen to ABC while we drive. It’s a lot like listening to the CBC. (Except for the Australian accent, of course.)
Horseshoe Bay
It’s advised to swim beneath a pair of yellow and red flags due to ‘marine stingers‘.
This is enough to keep me out of the water for the duration. Their effects range from ‘a slight prickle’ to ‘agonizing death’.
Doesn’t stop Maria, though.
Horseshoe Bay
This is Horseshoe Bay, near Bowen, QLD. Bowen is famous for its mangoes (!)
Horseshoe BayHorseshoe Bay
We find that traveling in our own vehicle, we have fewer opportunities for taking photos – just because ‘a body in motion tends to remain in motion’ and all that.
Horseshoe Bay
We enjoy staying in caravan parks. They’re clean and quiet. The inhabitants are usually pensioners escaping the southern winter.
Horseshoe Bay
Everyone is extremely friendly. We conjecture a drinking game where you have to down a shot of Bundaberg rum every time someone says ‘no worries’; we’d be legless by midmorning.
Sight or Insight of the Day – Queensland
Australia is a birdwatcher’s paradise. Everywhere we go are parakeets, kookaburras, and other avian exotica. (This clearly marks us out as tourists, that we think of parakeets and kookaburras as ‘exotic’.)
For the first time ever, we actually pay for an iPhone app: Morecombe and Stewart’s Birds of Australia.